A river runs through the city, separating two halves of a whole. Commercial and pedestrian bridges connect the binational community: El Paso on the U.S. side; Juárez on the Mexican side. Here, movement back and forth is an everyday occurrence.
Many families in El Paso have relatives in Juárez. They cross over to meet friends and buy lower-priced medication. People from El Paso have fond memories of their teenage years, bar hopping in Juárez. Likewise, residents of Juárez go to their jobs, go shopping and attend concerts in El Paso. Each morning, students cross the bridges to go to school in El Paso. Every September 16, people from both sides gather for Mexican Independence Day.
In his cultural history of El Paso and Juárez, historian David Dorado Romo writes: "People who live on the border are unclassifiable hybrids. They are not exactly immigrants... . Border crossers are a people on the margin. Not real Americans. Not real Mexicans for that matter."
In the past, trolleys would drop off thousands of passengers from Juárez every day at San Jacinto Plaza, the heart of downtown, known for its pond, which was once home to live alligators. The restaurants, bars and shops thrived.
Today, downtown El Paso is emptier, though its eclectic mix of architecture, with open-air-market-style shops, remains. A combination of factors has led to decline: tighter border security after 9/11, relocation of the bus terminal away from the plaza, a rise in cartel violence in Juárez and, most recently, the pandemic. The border was closed for 20 months to slow the spread of Covid-19.
The city has tried to revitalize downtown. In 2012, residents approved the development of a $180 million entertainment arena. It's a controversial project because the plans include demolishing Duranguito, one of El Paso's oldest neighborhoods with several historic buildings, including a century-old stash house used by Mexican revolutionary Pancho Villa.
In search of a better life
Life on the border includes the unauthorized crossings that have shaped the racial geography of El Paso and national immigration policy. An estimated 90,000 people, including Mexican migrant workers and undocumented immigrants, live in communitites near El Paso that aren't governed by the city and may lack services, such as running water. The county government and nonprofits, like the Colonias Water Project, are working to connect families to these services.
In recent years, most unauthorized migrants have come from Central America. In 2022, El Paso experienced an increase in Venezuelans crossing the river. Migrants have the right to request asylum in the U.S., and most are only passing through El Paso. With shelters filled to capacity, local governments began transporting migrants to their preferred destinations. Many were sent on buses to New York City and Chicago — a move that was criticized by the mayor of New York. El Paso ended this program after President Biden restarted a Trump-era policy of expelling most Venezuelan migrants to Mexico.
El Paso continues to change, experiencing steady population growth but rapid development. Affordable housing and infrastructure are top concerns for residents.