Halloumi with mushy peas

As a boy, Julian Earwaker looked forward to fish on Fridays, though, not every week. Mum would save her housekeeping money for this treat from the chippie for the five kids. It was worth every penny, giving her a rare free evening.

The cod and chips were served only with salt and malt vinegar. "There was none of your mayo and salad cream," laughs Julian, a longtime correspondent for Spotlight, who grew up in Ipswich but now lives in nearby Norwich.

Those days are long gone now. It's been around 35 years since Julian went vegetarian. His memories of those fish suppers have faded, but he still remembers the flaky texture of the cod.

Years later, he was visiting the seaside town of Brighton. At the popular Terre à Terre restaurant, he chose a plate of vegetarian fish and chips. In place of the fish was battered halloumi.

"It was a revelation," says Julian.

The cheese had been soaked in buttermilk for a few hours before cooking it. "The soaking softens it, takes the sharp saltiness out of the cheese, changing the texture to a beautiful, soft, slightly doughy texture," he says.

So, "fish and chips" was back on the menu. It is now served in a number of places. Julian likes to eat it at the pub, with a cold beer, but avoids looking at the 1,000 calorie count listed on the menu.

His happiest memory of eating the dish was after that trip to Terre à Terre. He made it at home using the restaurant's online recipe. He soaked the halloumi and made the batter with ice water for a crisp, light finish. For the chips, he used starchy potatoes - twice fried for extra crunch. The mushy peas were made with mint, parsley and butter.

The meal was a triumph. "You nailed it! That's amazing!" exclaimed Helena, his stepdaughter, 17 years old at the time. For Julian, Helena's approval meant everything. The pair had struggled to get along. But now, he had created a connection through food. Julian treasures the memory of that evening. The food of his childhood had brought the new family together.

Halloumi with mushy peas

Ingredients

MUSHY PEAS

• 400 g fresh or frozen peas

• 40 g mint, chopped

• 40 g parsley, chopped

• 50 g unsalted butter

• pinch of salt and black pepper

BATTER

• 150 g plain flour

• 75 g self-raising flour

• 10 ml white wine vinegar

• 240 ml ice water or cold beer

• 1/2 tsp baking powder

• pinch of salt and black pepper

HALLOUMI

• 500 g halloumi cheese

• 500 ml buttermilk

• 200 g plain flour for coating

• 250 ml sunflower oil

Recipe

Cover the cheese with buttermilk and place in the refrigerator for several hours. Before you begin cooking, drain the halloumi and cut into thin triangles. For the batter, mix the ingredients together to create what looks like thick cream. Refrigerate. In a pot of boiling salted water, cook the peas with the mint and parsley until tender. Drain and puree lightly with the butter, salt and pepper. Keep warm. Dip the cheese first in plain flour, then in the batter. Heat the oil to 180 ºC in a deep pan and fry. Serve the halloumi and mushy peas together – with chips for a higher-calorie alternative.